A cathedral green made for lolling, a quayside made for pottering, and a forest on the doorstep. Here is how we would spend a day in Exeter with your dog.
Exeter is an easy city to love with a dog. It has a cathedral with a big open green in front of it that seems purpose-built for a dog to flop on, a lively old quayside curling along the river, an estuary trail running off towards the sea, and one of the best walking forests in the West Country a few minutes out of town. You can do a proper long walk and a proper city day in the same afternoon and never be far from a bowl of water.
The plan is simple: a big green walk to start, the river and the cathedral in the middle, and a pint by the water to finish. Here is how we would spend it, with the real, well-reviewed places we would actually take our own dog.
1
Morning: a proper forest, or the estuary
For the big one, drive out to Haldon Forest Park above the city, where dogs run off-lead across most of the site on a network of waymarked trails, with a cafe and a car park to come back to. It is a genuine let-them-loose sort of morning, all pine and birdsong and happy, tired dogs.
If you would rather stay flat and by the water, the Exe Estuary Trail is a traffic-free path that runs from the quay out towards the sea, and the string of valley parks on the edge of the city, Ludwell, Riverside and Mincinglake, give you off-lead green closer to the centre.
Exeter Quay is the heart of the city's dog-friendliness, a curve of old warehouses and cellars along the river now full of independent cafes and bars, with waterside seating and green space to spread out on. It is a lovely, low-key place to while away an afternoon with a dog, and you can walk or hire a canoe from here up the ship canal.
In the middle of the city, the Cathedral Green is one of the best spots in Exeter, a wide lawn in front of the great west front of the cathedral where dogs are welcome in the outdoor areas and grounds, and half the city seems to come to sit out on a sunny day. Nearby, Rougemont Gardens give you a quiet, walled green with the old castle for company.
Exeter does a good line in dog-friendly cafes. Sacred Grounds is genuinely welcoming, buggy and wheelchair-friendly and good with dogs, Boston Tea Party welcomes them in all areas with water and biscuits, and Pho is a reliably dog-friendly stop for something warm. Out at Haldon, the Ridge Cafe has water and tie-rings for a mid-walk break.
For a proper adventure, the Turf Hotel sits out on the estuary and can only be reached on foot, by bike or by boat, which makes arriving with a dog feel like a small expedition and the pint at the end of it all the better. In town, the Fat Pig actively welcomes dogs with water bowls and treats, and the Mill on the Exe gives you a riverside garden and a free treat on arrival.
For a night in the city, the City Gate Hotel treats dogs to a bed, a blanket and a water bowl right by the centre, the Devon Hotel on the edge of town keeps comfortable dog-friendly rooms, and Hotel du Vin brings its usual style to a dog-friendly stay in the old eye hospital.
A morning loose in the forest and an afternoon on the cathedral green. Exeter lets a dog have the best of the country and the city in one day.
What to pack for a day out
The short list that turns a good day into an easy one. Throw it in the boot before you set off.
Water bottle and collapsible bowl
Towel for the boot
Poo bags, always
Spare lead and a long line
Treats for the pub
ID tag and vaccinations up to date
Questions dog owners ask
What is the best dog walk in Exeter?
Haldon Forest Park above the city is the standout, with off-lead trails across most of the site and a cafe. For a flat, waterside option, the Exe Estuary Trail runs traffic-free from the quay towards the sea.
Are dogs allowed at Exeter Cathedral?
Dogs are welcome in the outdoor areas and grounds, including the popular Cathedral Green in front of the west front, where well-behaved dogs on leads can relax with you. Check before entering the cathedral itself.
Is Exeter Quay dog friendly?
Very. The quayside is full of dog-friendly cafes and bars with waterside seating and green space, making it one of the best spots in the city to spend an afternoon with a dog.
Which Exeter pubs take dogs?
The Turf Hotel out on the estuary, reached on foot, bike or boat, is a dog-friendly favourite, the Fat Pig actively welcomes dogs with bowls and treats, and the Mill on the Exe has a dog-friendly riverside garden.
Where can I stay in Exeter with a dog?
The City Gate Hotel treats dogs to a bed and bowl in the centre, the Devon Hotel offers dog-friendly rooms on the edge of the city, and Hotel du Vin welcomes up to two dogs.
Exeter through the seasons
Spring
Haldon Forest fills with birdsong and the estuary trail is alive with wading birds. A loose morning in the pines and a coffee on the quay is spring in Exeter at its best.
Summer
The quayside and cathedral green come alive, though the city gets warm. Head to the shade of Haldon early, carry water, and grab a waterside table on the quay for the evening.
Autumn
Haldon turns and the crowds thin. The estuary is at its best for birds, the cathedral green glows in low light, and the pubs start feeling especially cosy.
Winter
Wrap up for a bracing estuary walk to the Turf, or keep to Haldon's well-drained forest tracks, then thaw out by the river at the Mill on the Exe with a muddy dog at your feet.