A castle at the river mouth, boats on the Dart, and coves that welcome dogs all year round. Here is how we would spend a day in Dartmouth with yours.
Dartmouth is a proper South Devon estuary town, all steep streets, painted houses and a river full of boats, guarded at its mouth by a castle that has stood there for six hundred years. It is a town made for a slow day: a coast path in the morning, a boat trip, a good lunch and a pint by the water. And it is genuinely good with a dog, right down to the coves that stay open to them when the summer beach bans shut everywhere else.
You do not need a car once you are here. The whole day joins up on foot and by ferry, with the dog beside you the entire way. Here is how we would spend it, with the real, well-loved places we would actually take our own.
1
Morning: the coast path and a year-round cove
Walk out to the castle and keep going. From Dartmouth Castle the South West Coast Path climbs to Little Dartmouth with big estuary views, and just below sit two little coves, Castle Cove and Sugary Cove, both of which welcome dogs all year round, which is rarer on this coast than you would think. It is a proper leg-stretch with a swim at the end of it.
If you want more sand, Strete Gate at the western end of Slapton Sands takes dogs year-round too. Blackpool Sands is beautiful but bans dogs from May to the end of September, so save that one for the off-season.
You cannot come to Dartmouth and stay on dry land. The little Lower Ferry chugs across to Kingswear with dogs welcome on board, and the river cruises up the Dart are one of the loveliest ways to spend an hour with a dog dozing at your feet. The Greenway Ferry runs up to Agatha Christie's old house, and the whole river is yours to potter along.
For a proper day of it, take a boat one way and the steam railway back, watching the estuary slide past from an open window.
Dartmouth Castle is a joy to wander, dogs on leads welcome across the grounds and the battlements, with the sea churning below and boats sliding in and out of the river mouth. It is one of the best-loved days out in the town.
If you have the legs for a short drive, Coleton Fishacre is worth it: a National Trust house with a glorious subtropical garden running down to the sea, and dogs on short leads welcome throughout the grounds and the cafe terrace. Closer in, the Royal Avenue Gardens give you a green sit-down in the middle of town.
The good news is you do not have to tie the dog up outside. The Seahorse, one of the town's most celebrated restaurants, welcomes dogs inside with a water bowl, and Rockfish on the embankment is a relaxed, well-reviewed spot with dogs welcome and the river right there.
For coffee and something lighter, Cafe Alf Resco is a Dartmouth institution that welcomes dogs with open arms, indoors and in its heated courtyard.
Bayards Cove Inn is the one, tucked on the cobbled quay where the Mayflower once called, with dogs welcome throughout and dog beds, bowls and local treats on hand. The Floating Bridge sits right on the water with dogs welcome in the bar and outside, and the Cherub, the town's oldest building, is a wonderfully wonky old timber pub that keeps a warm welcome for a dog.
Dartmouth is a lovely place to wake up. Browns is a smart little boutique hotel and bistro that makes a fuss of dogs, the Dart Marina sits right on the water with dogs welcome in its Garden Rooms and the lounge, and the grand old Royal Castle Hotel on the quay welcomes them in the downstairs bars by the log fires.
Dartmouth is a town that runs on boats and dogs, and it never seems to mind which of you gets on first.
What to pack for a day out
The short list that turns a good day into an easy one. Throw it in the boot before you set off.
Water bottle and collapsible bowl
Towel for the boot
Poo bags, always
Spare lead and a long line
Treats for the pub
ID tag and vaccinations up to date
Questions dog owners ask
Are there year-round dog beaches in Dartmouth?
Yes. Castle Cove and Sugary Cove below Dartmouth Castle, and Strete Gate at Slapton, all welcome dogs all year round. Blackpool Sands bans dogs from 1 May to 30 September, so it is an off-season option.
Can dogs go on the Dartmouth ferries and boat trips?
Yes. Dogs are welcome on the Lower Ferry to Kingswear, on the river cruises up the Dart and on the Greenway Ferry. Keep them on a lead on board.
Is Dartmouth Castle dog friendly?
Yes, dogs on leads are welcome throughout the grounds and battlements at Dartmouth Castle. Keep them close on the steps and near the sea walls.
Which Dartmouth pubs and restaurants take dogs?
Bayards Cove Inn welcomes dogs with beds and bowls, the Floating Bridge and the Cherub are dog-friendly, and for food the Seahorse and Rockfish both welcome dogs inside.
Where can I stay in Dartmouth with a dog?
Browns is a dog-friendly boutique hotel, the Dart Marina welcomes dogs in its Garden Rooms on the water, and the Royal Castle Hotel takes them in the downstairs bars by the fires.
Dartmouth through the seasons
Spring
The coast path bursts into colour and the river wakes up. Castle Cove is quiet, the ferries are running again, and a table outside Cafe Alf Resco in the sun is the reward.
Summer
Head for the year-round coves, Castle Cove and Sugary Cove, since Blackpool Sands bans dogs until October. Carry water on the coast path and start early to beat the crowds onto the ferry.
Autumn
Arguably the best season here. The summer beach bans lift, Coleton Fishacre glows, and the pubs light their fires. Big skies and empty coast paths.
Winter
Wild and wonderful. Every beach is open to dogs, the Royal Castle's log fires are lit, and a blustery walk to the castle followed by hot chocolate is a proper winter day out.